by Kayleen Hanna
Bamboo fabric arrived in 2005. It was promoted as “natural and anti-bacterial, green and biodegradable, breathable and cool, soft hand, luxurious, shiny” were touted in sale literature. Missing was information on how it could be converted into soft, cotton-like fabric. I researched at North Carolina State University College of Textile library in November 2005. I discovered that the process was the regenerative viscose process dating back to 1894. The wood source bamboo was new but not the process.
Bamboo and other Regenerated Fibers. Certifiable as organic?
editor’s note, the author was focused on two subjects, revealing the viscose process and in answering if this process could be certifiable as organic under the standard.
Please note that in 2005, the evaluative standard for U.S. organic textiles was the American Organic Standard. This standard still is utilized as a policy document filling in gaps in the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS).
Overview of regenerated fiber eg. viscose process.
- Base material is a sustainable resource.
- Base material, bamboo, as well as other regenerated fibers ie soy, corn can be grown and certified organic.
- Constituents are polymers, long chains of molecules. Bamboo is cellulose. but does not exist naturally as spinnable fibers.
- The process to convert bamboo into filaments and fibers is similar to the process producing rayon and acetate.
How is bamboo transformed into a silky, fine filament?
Simply,
Cellulose is dissolved and resolidified .
Key is:
Formation of viscous solution
Extrusion of filaments into acid bath
End result:
Cellulose is regenerated.
Form is spinnable textile fiber or filaments
For detail on the viscose process visit:
www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/rayon.htm,
Can bamboo be certified (or not) as organic?
Reference: the Materials List of American Organic Standard
Prohibited materials utilized in manufacture of viscose rayon:
- Hydrochloric acid in filament manufacture
- Optical bleaches in preparing filament
- Sulfuric Acid in filament manufacture Carbon Disulfide that is highly flammable and a central nervous system toxin. Teratogenic: After pregnant rats breathed carbon disulfide in the air, some of the newborn rats died or had birth defects.
- Sodium Hydroxide. Classified as a 3 in the NFPA 704, Blue Health Hazard Standard. Short exposure could cause serious temporary or residual injury.
Do regenerated fibers comply with Section 3 -Principles of Organic Fiber Production, American Organic Standard?
(Principles are listed with followed by answer)
3.1: To provide the consumer with natural fiber products that maintain the integrity of the organic fiber as defined by these standards;
Does the regenerative process maintain the integrity of the base fiber?.
Dissolving then reconstituting does not maintain the integrity of the bamboo.
3.2: To further the development of practices, technology, and market potential for products produced from certified organic fiber. To insure that organic fiber products are handled and processed in a manner that sustains and enhances the biological, mechanical, and chemical systems associated with their production;
This principle may be interpreted to support certifying new fiber technology rooted in organic agriculture. The technology must minimally impact the environment, internal and external. The viscose (rayon) process has sizeable impacts.
3.3. To further develop organic fiber production techniques, especially the innovation of organic dyestuffs, less harmful dyestuffs, and wet processing chemicals which provide most of the fashion, functionality, and economy of conventional fiber production;
The goal of development is compatible with the responsible manufacture of regenerative fiber. There has been and continues to be innovation in manufacture of regenerative fibers. An example is lyocell. This objective can be met by substituting chemicals and processes with lower impacts and physically separating dangerous chemicals from human contact and the environment. Improvement in reducing impact may reach a point that warrants investigation and consideration by the organic certifiers and associations.
3.4. To help ensure that all certified organic fiber production is done in an environmentally sustainable system;
A closed manufacturing system featuring corrosive, explosive substances could be considered a definition of sustainability by some. From the perspective of the organic culture, it is not a sustainable system.
3.6. To reduce or eliminate the conventional additives and auxiliary chemicals when processing certified organically-grown fiber;
Manufacture of viscose (rayon) is contrary to this principle of reduction and elimination. Future formulations and processes for manufactured fiber may progress in this respect but not the current viscose process.
Does bamboo fiber fit (or not) into Section 9 Evaluation Criteria of American Organic Standard? (Criteria is listed followed by my evaluation.)
Section 9.2 Evaluation Criteria for materials used in organic fiber processing.
9.2.1. Material may used if it meets the 7 criteria:
1. Sustains/enhances biological, mechanical and chemical systems. Not met.
2. Manufacture, use and disposal has no significant adverse environmental affect. Not met.
3. No alternative method that produces similar product. Minimum use of adverse substance. Not met because of use of adverse substances.
4. Reduces or eliminates use of other additives and auxiliary chemicals. (An improvement over prior process.) Not met.
5. No carcinogenic, mutagenic, teratogenic, toxic to mammals, endocrine disrupter. Not met.
6. Biodegradable to standard. Not met.
7. Dyestuff meets standard. Applies if fiber is dyed. Can be met.
Manufacturing of bamboo does not meet criteria 1-6. Criteria 7 can be met based upon dye and color selected.
Would the viscose method of creating regenerated fibers ever be certified as organic per the American Organic Standard?
I would say no based upon this evaluation.
References:
- China Bambro Textile Company, Bambro Tex Technical Guidance Document
- Collier, Billie and Collier, John, “Green Processing of Cellulose to Value-Added Products “(G) Sigma Xi Distinguished Lecturers 2004-2005 Abstracts.
- Fu-Huang Hsieh, http://www.imba.missouri.edu/funded/2002_6.htm
- Organic Trade Association, American Organic Standard
- www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/rayon.htm, Rayon Fiber – Rayon Staple Fiber, Rayon Textile Filament Fiber
This information “Bamboo Fabric, certifiable as organic?” was presented by the author at the Advanced Organic Inspector’s Training in 2005 at the International Textile Center. The fiber processing training was co sponsored by the Independent Organic Inspector’s Association and the Organic Trade Association.
Kayleen Hanna owns Sew Eco-Logical Inc, a company that sells quality organic textiles to manufacturers, large and small. Sew Eco-Logical is celebrating its 12th anniversary this month.
